The record, 31 octobre 1986, Supplément 3

Energy supplement 1_____toi fticcora Friday, October 31, 1986 2 — Energy Supplement — THE RECORD — Friday, October 31, 1986 How to Insulate the Attic SOME REMINDERS BEFORE YOU START • Remember that the goal is to form a complete blanket around the house.Search out corners and spaces above heated areas where heat may escape • Make sure you have familiarized yourself with the moisture control section of Chapter 2.Poor moisture control can cause problems.• Refer back to Chapter 4 for detailed information on insulation materials and vapour barriers.Tools Required • Temporary lighting • Temporary flooring ^ «If you are installing an air-vapour barrier, a roll of vapour resistant tape, compatible with the barrier you are using and/or several tubes of sealant, and a heavy duty staple gun (you should be able to rent this) and staples — alternatively a hammer and tacks • Heavy duty shears or linoleum knife • Rake or some tool to manoeuvre insulation into place around eaves when there isn't enough headroom • If you are planning to rent equipment for installing insulation, a short training course, or a good instruction manual SPECIAL SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS Provide good lighting (preferably a glass-enclosed or fluorescent trouble light, since an open bulb can ignite some types of insulation).Lay boards down over the tops of the joists or trusses to form a walkway (the ceiling below won't support your weight).Wear a hard hat.Wear gloves and a breathing mask, and keep the material in its bag until you are ready to put it in place.Locate all electrical w'iring in your attic, and then avoid all unnecessary contact with it.If it docsn t look safe (cracked covering, bare wires, open junction boxes) have it inspected by a qualified tradesman, or hydro authority.If there are nails protruding from the floor, wear safety boots.Otherwise wear shoes with good traction (running shoes).BEFORE YOU START Install temporary lighting and flooring.Keep insulation wrapped and out of the attic until you are ready to install it.If possible, unwrap baits and blankets in the attic, since they expand and become less manageable after opening.V-ûfOuR RestSTANT T2sP£f tPUiy STAPLE goh UbJOLBUtA «X/IFE ROTECTION PLAN For your heating system Les Pétroles Sherbrooke Inc.offers you an extended 4-year guarantee on parts and labour.OIL SYSTEM BI-ENERGY SYSTEM • Set price for 4 years without inflation.• Only one number to dial to take care of your heating and bi-energy problems.• Parts are covered up to 98% less restriction in the contract.• Always the same team will be working on your furnace and bi-energy unit.• Solvency of the company is guaranteed by Retro Canada.• This protection plan is exclusive to Retro Canada.Call us and find out by yourself that: Les Pétroles Sherbrooke Inc.U» imj SAVES.Information PETROCANADA V» «ou» appartient! (819) 565-1770 WHEN DOES WOOD HEATING MAKE SENSE?Unlike conventional fuels, successful wood heating is site specific, depending on both family lifestyle and housing type.Please keep the following questions in mind as you read this brochure.If you can answer “yes” to most of these, then wood heating probably makes sense for you.• Do you have reliable access to good quality firewood, at a reasonable price?• Do you have suitable storage space for a year's supply of firewood?• Is your neighbourhood subject to frequent power failures which prevent you from using your conventional heating system?• Do you have a backup heating system for the times when you are unable to burn wood?• Can you purchase a wood heater that has been constructed for safe, efficient operation (preferably with Canadian safety certification)?• Can a wood heater be safely installed in your home, including the provision of a safe chimney?Concerns about the rising price and insecure supply of fuel oil and oil-generated electricity have led many Canadians to consider using wood fuel for all or part of their space heating needs.Despite a recent history of residential wood fuel use in this country, particularly in rural areas, many homeowners are not yet familiar with the installation, operation and maintenance requirements of efficient, controlled-combustion wood heaters.Beyond just keeping warm, homeowners today must also think about the safety, efficiency and economics of wood heating.Successful wood heating involves planning, care and common sense.These major areas are covered briefly in this brochure.Homeowners seriously considering a switch to wood fuel are strongly advised to consult the sources listed in the Further Information section.• Are you willing to accept the extra work involved in safe wood heating?• Do local building codes and your insurance company allow you to install a wood heater?WOOD FUEL The heating value of firewood depends on the species — its density — and its moisture content.The table below lists common firewoods in order of density.Dense woods burn more slowly and contain more heat per volume than lighter species such as poplar or spruce.Using denser woods reduces the amount of time required for fuel handling and fire stoking.Freshly cut wood, called “green” or “unseasoned", contains a significant amount of moisture.It burns inefficiently and can lead to formation of creosote — a tar-like, flammable substance — in the stove pipe or chimney.For these reasons, only wood that has been air-dried or seasoned for several months should be used as fuel.Ideally, firewood should be cut, split and piled one heating season ahead.f CHECK FOR LEAKS IN THE ROOF Wetness or water stains on the inside of the roof, or ceiling below, may be clues.It is important not to confuse signs of condensation or other moisture problems with the effects of moisture from a leaky roof.The best approach is to check the roof from inside the attic during or after a rainstorm.Any leaks in the roof must be repaired before adding insulation.Average heat value in a cord of air-dried wood If there arc signs of moisture damage and the roof is not leaky you will need to investigate further.The problem could be condensation from air leaking through the ceiling.Locate and seal the leaks.The problem could be from ice damming on the roof, allowing water to back up and under the shingles.Ice damming can usually be reduced by sealing and insulating the attic, and by clearing and improving the ventilation.If the ice damming problem persists you may have to consider adding a layer of rigid board insulation to the underside of the roof sheathing around problem areas.Another source of moisture problems may be rain and snow entering through unprotected vents.Replace or relocate the vents as necessary.EXISTING INSULATION Make sure it is drv and in reasonable condition.Energy Supplement — THE RECORD — Friday , October 31, I9S« — 3 Many old houses will have unusual insulation types, such as seaweed, wood shavings, or old newspapers.Whatever the kind, if it is not wet, leave it, adding new insulation on top.If it is wet, remove it altogether.Before adding new insulation, locate and eliminate the source of moisture.If you have existing cellulose insulation it may not be advisable to cover it with additional insulation of another type.AIR LEAKS Check diligently for any air leaks into the attic from inside the house, and “plug them up".As long as warm air can find escape routes through the attic floor, the heal will simply bypass any insulation.Caulking, oakum, insulating rope, spray cans of urethane, and polyethylene scraps arc suitable for sealing most holes.Heat sources such as light fixtures and motors require special materials and scaling techniques.Do not place any flammable material in direct contact with heat sources.When searching for air leaks it might help to turn off your flashlight or trouble light and look for light from below.Some common sources of air leakage that should be investigated include: • Around the plumbing stack and any other pipes entering the attic (plug holes from the basement or under the kitchen sink as well).• Around wires or ceiling light fixtures that penetrate the attic floor (careful!).Common firewoods Hickory Oak Sugar maple Beech Yellow birch Ash Elm Red maple Tamarack ,, White birch Poplar Spruce Hemlock Pine Basswood Fir Heat content (million Btu/cord) High •« Medium Low 17 17 17 17 16 13 the house and the winter temperatures.A simple rule of thumb is that one cord of air-dried high density hardwood burned in an airtight stove at 50 per cent efficiency is the energy equivalent of about 590 L (130 gal) of oil or 4100 kWh of electricity.On the average, 2 to 4 cords of firewood will be required each winter to supplement your present heating system; total home heating with wood typically requires 4 to 8 cords.Firewood sources With the recent revival of wood heating there is an increased number of fuelwood dealers.Home-owners in many communities can order firewood that is cut to their specifications and delivered to their homes A reputable fuelwood dealer should provide you with a receipt indicating the quantity of fuel delivered (number of full cords), the species and the length of time that the wood has been air-dried.Storage Wood should be cut in lengths that suit the width of the stove or furnace firebox.Splitting the wood speeds up the drying process.For summer drying, firewood should be loosely piled for maximum exposure to sun and wind, and kept from contact with the moist ground.During winter months, wood fuel is best stored outdoors, under cover, or in a shed near the house.Quantity The traditional measurement for wood fuel is the full cord.A full cord has a bulk volume of 3.6 m3 (128 ft3) or 1.2 x 1.2 x 2.4 m (4 x 4 x 8 ft).The solid wood content of a cord will range between 2.1 and 2.5 m3 (75-90 ft3) depending on the size of logs and how closely they are piled together.The quantity of wood fuel required will vary depending on the area to be heated, the structure of A true cord, or "full cord" of wood Windows and Doors Competitive Prices j • Specialty - Wall Mir- •Colored mirrors & rors windows Repair aluminum & • Framed mirrors wooden window ca- • Installation of win- smg • Repair car mirrors dows for heavy load trucks Qltrerie Installation of window in existing frame Come and see our large showroom 1865, Sherbrooke Magog — 843-2098 4 — Energy Supplement — THE RECORD — Friday, October 31, 1986 • Around dueling that enters the attic from inside the house — from kitchen exhaust fans, bathroom vents, etc.(The ductwork itself should also be sealed by taping the joints with duct tape.It is especially important that no exhaust fans discharge into the attic.They should discharge to the outside, but not directly below the eavc vents.) flexible, heat-resistant caulking or stove cement.For more detailed information on safe chimney sealing practices, contact the HEATLINE and ask for Fire Safety and Attic Insulation.• Along the edge of shared walls.There is often a gap between the party wall and the edge of the attic floor;'this gap must be well plugged.EXISTING VAPOUR BARRIER If there is an existing vapour barrier, your job will be easy.Patch any obvious breaks in it, then proceed with the insulation.If the vapour barrier is punctured with nails, this will not seriously damage its effectiveness unless, of course, the nails are pulled out.If bait • At the junction of the ceiling and interior wall partitions (not usually a problem with plastered ceilings).Pull back the insulation where necessary to locate cracks formed along interior walls, and seal any obvious cracks with caulking compound.• At the top of interior and exterior walls.Check to see if all the wall cavities are blocked from the attic (usually by a top plate).If spaces have been left open, or cut open, then stuff pieces of bait insulation or other material as deep as possible into the exposed cavity to prevent a flow of household air through the partitions and into the attic.If the top plate is cracked or poorly fitted, use caulking and polyethylene to create a tight seal.• Around attic hatches.Weatherstrip the hatch as you would a door to the outside.Seal around the frame and between the casing and the ceiling plasterboard.Apply the weatherstripping along the edges of either the casing or the access panel itself.• Around the chimney.Gaps around chimneys can be partially sealed by stuffing them tight with glass or mineral fibre batts (without a paper facing) if permitted by local building codes (check with your local authorities).Do not use any material that is (or may become) flammable.For greater effectiveness, two pieces of sheet metal may be cut to fit around the chimney.All joints should be sealed with a AaXNiP [MKier fcTCPce feX*€£>£>F IM wall Villi?ci